Treatment Guide

When urine is allowed to remain on a carpet or other material for a month or more it begins to bond itself to the fibers. Mother Nature then begins the process of decay. The bacteria break down the urine proteins and unfortunately, bacteria is the source of the obnoxious odor you smell.

To treat the urine stain, follow these steps:

• Find the stain

1. 1. • A big smell usually comes from a small spot. Locate that spot. If it’s visible, you’re half way there. If it is not, start looking in the corners. In most cases animals urinate in the corner.

• Pre-treat

1. 1. • Always try to remove as much visible contamination first. If it’s a large area use a carpet steam cleaner or hot water extractor unit first. Clean it the best you can using your favorite detergent.

• Apply Anti-Icky-Poo Products

1. • Depending on the surface you’re treating, the application may vary.

If you are able to lift the carpet, spray sides as well as the padding and floor. In fact, spray everything that appears to be contaminated. This may include walls, curtains, hearth, etc. If you’re not able to lift the carpet, a large syringe may be used.

Injecting is the recommended method for treating carpeting. Why inject? Because that is where 90% of the urine is.

For those who are not injecting, make sure to get the liquid into the padding. To do this, spray the surface, walk on the area thoroughly, wait 2 days and spray the surface again thoroughly.

To treat carpet soiling, follow these steps:

• Preperations

1. 1. • Have ready a spray bottle of our enzymatic digester, a larger container of the same, and a shallow bowl in which to pour. Drawing the liquid from the bowl is the easiest method of filling the injector.

• Inject

1. 1. • Pierce the carpet backing with the needle and lift the tufts slightly with your other hand. Slide the needle in horizontally between the secondary backing and the top of the pad. Push one ounce, or 30 cc’s, into the void.

• Repeat

1. 1. • Repeat the procedure each four to six Inches, grid fashion, throughout the contaminated areas until satisfied that you have adequately covered it all. You can expect that one ounce will cover four to six Inches in diameter depending on density of the fabric and thickness of the pad. Generally, you will have to refill your injector many times.

• Spray

1. • Using your spray bottle, cover the face yarns well and walk around on the entire treatment with your full weight In order to spread and squeeze in the good stuff. When white foam from the digester appears up through the carpet backing beneath, you know it has soaked all of the way through.

For machine washable fabrics only. Use a top loading washing machine or submerse in a tub of your choice.

To treat fabric soiling, follow these steps:

• Add Clothing

1. 1. • Add clothing to your top loading washer or into a tub for soaking.

• Add Water

1. 1. • Fill your tub or washing machine with water to the top of fabrics so that every piece of fabric is submersed.

• Add Product

1. 1. • Add 1 cup MisterMax Products to washing machine or tub.

• Soak

1. 1. • Let sit for 24 hours.

• Wash

1. • Finally, wash normally in the washing machine.

To treat fabric soiling, follow these steps:

• Spray

1. 1. • Spray a generous supply of the bacterial enzyme solution directly onto the fabric.
      • For deeper penetration, work the bacterial enzyme solution in with your hands so that in is squeezed into the fabric.
      • For blankets, sheets, drapes, sleeping bags and clothes, spray both inside and out generously with bacterial enzyme solution.
      • Note: If the contamination is on a cushion or mattress then injecting is recommended.

Cushions and Mattresses: If the contamination is on a cushion or mattress then injecting is recommended.

Sleeping Bags: sleeping bags might need two treatments.

• Wait

1. • Let sit for 24 hours and wash normally.

To treat standard rugs, follow these steps

• Spray

1. 1. • Simply spray both top and bottom thoroughly

• Walk

1. 1. • Walk on the rug to penetrate the fibers

• Wait

1. • Wait 2 days and repeat as necesary

These rugs present a special challenge. Please follow the proper procedure for the treatment of urine contaminated oriental rugs.

Hand made antiques are the most valuable of all area rugs. Originating in eastern cultures, these rugs, in a broad sense, are commonly known as “Orientals.” Woven by hand with the assistance of crude looms, they were constructed primarily from dyed wool. Unlike modern colorfast dyes, those used in the antiques tend to be unstable and bleed easily when wet.

“Color bleed” is a condition whereby one color migrates into another. Lignin, a natural dye exuding from the fabric may further complicate matters. Since wetting is essential for adequate cleaning, these rugs are a special challenge for those professionals who care for them.

In addition to wool yarns, some of the binding materials used in the weaves include cotton, silk and linen. Dyes used are primarily vegetable based, but include other experimental and exotic dyes, as well. The key is that all of the materials used came from “natural” sources; the fabrics, dyes, basically everything used for manufacturing are derived from sources readily available to its creators.

Natural fibers used in the spinning of yarns are complex, each type having unique characteristics. These fibers are porous, or absorbent. All grew with a lumen, or hollowness; a natural fiber is constructed like a tube that is hollow on the inside. While the complex surface and twist of the yarn tend to hide dry particulate soiling, staining is more likely to occur when liquid soiling is taken into the lumen, then dries.

Immersion cleaning of wools is recommended as natural fabrics require thorough soaking in order to adequately flush the accumulated soils. Oriental rug cleaning professionals commonly use a water bath with a lowered pH. Acids added to the bath tend to freeze unstable dyes thereby reducing the risk of color bleed.

High alkalinity as found in dried urine increases the risk of dyes bleeding: a high pH, or alkaline condition, can more easily bleed the colors of these acid set dyes into surrounding areas. Dried urine becomes increasingly alkaline over a period of time and can cause “color bleed.”

The following procedures and products are recommended for the treatment of urine contaminated oriental rugs. The following treatment presumes the urine has already thoroughly dried:

• Research

1. 1. • Contact a knowledgeable rug cleaning professional, one that has the proper facilities (immersion).

• Pre-Treat

1. 1. • Treat the contaminants with a low pH surfactant (pH range: 3 to 5). Phosphoric or citric are the two most compatible acids for our live microbes, but clear, white vinegar (ascetic acid) can be used.

• Treat

1. 1. • Treat the area(s) liberally with a MisterMax quality bacterial/enzyme digester on both sides.

• Walk

1. 1. • Walk on the areas with your full weight to squeeze it in for the best penetration.

• Wait

1. 1. • Let sit for 2-4 days.

• Soak

1. 1. • Soak in acid bath.

• Clean

1. 1. • Clean and rinse using normal procedures.

• Re-apply

1. 1. • While the rug is still wet, lightly re-apply MisterMax quality bacterial/enzymes.

• Dry

1. • Let it air dry. Following these procedures will leave your rug devoid of urine and smelling fresh once again.

Leather is not very porous and in many cases the contamination will have flowed right off the surface. In this case just spray Anti-Icky-Poo on the leather and you’re done. For leather couches or chairs, most likely the contamination has flowed into the cracks, which makes it slightly more difficult to treat.

Just lightly pour the product following the same path the contamination has taken allowing the Anti-Icky-Poo to roll off into the cracks the same way. If the contamination has soaked into the couch or chair past the leather covering and you need to inject, try to inject into the seams.

Simply spray the bacterial enzyme solution directly on the surface and leave it alone.